Acne Studios had me at hej hej, but the team led by Creative Director Jonny Johansson, have truly outdone themselves this season. In my humble opinion this is their strongest collection to date. For AW14, the brands menswear collection is themed around the cool and tortured coastline of their Swedish homeland in the winter – cheery right?
But actually the collection itself doesn’t feel sombre at all. In a palette of sandy tones, milky yellows, rich camel, ice-water blue and blushes of pink, the mood of the collection is soft and contemplative. In Acne’s signature style, shapes are bloated and voluminous, cocooning the models in fabric. An oversized satin jacket, slouchy, wide-leg trousers, a waterproof parka in neoprene and brushed alpaca topcoat envelope the models without drowning them. Proportion and lines are used to create a restrained, minimal mood, with roll necks peaking out from under shirt collars and wool ankle grazers exposing just enough skin to juxtapose the otherwise rich materials. Long foiled layering pieces and shirts create a skirt like affect.
In the style of Phoebe Philo for Celine, the fluffy slipper reigns supreme.
The piece I most look forward to purchasing is the below “You First” sweater – restrained Swedish humour at its best. I love it.