Traditionally, J Lindeberg’s chief competition at Stockholm Fashion Week is Tiger of Sweden, but with Tiger’s debut show at London Collection Men, J. Lindeberg was left wide open for comment and criticism, free of comparison from their competitor.
AW14 saw a departure for J Lindeberg from their preppy, golf-inspired roots to something darker and more edgy. Leather was introduced as a primary fabric, to introduce a rock ‘n’ roll aesthetic that would appeal to an audience that feeds on Hedi Slimane and LOVE Magazine, in opposed to Home and Country and boating.SS15 continues this “bad boy” journey, with sleek, wet-look leather trousers and jackets forming the backbone of the collection. Last season’s black and red palette of AW14 – that if honest at times felt gaudy – was lightened for SS15 with white, beige, burgundy, petrol blue and dusty pink giving the collection a more refined feel.
Entitled “Biotopia”, Head of Design Jessy Heuvelink sought to inject the “natural” into an “urban setting”. This was imagined by means of flower and leopard prints, feather details on womenswear, and beautifully crafted leather roses adorning lapels, wide belts and neck pieces.
Lapels and shirt collars were oversized, whilst the rest of the silhouette was distinctly slim-fit. The tailoring aesthetic was interrupted with sportswear influences – a Varsity jacket and peeps of mesh string vests that reminded me of what we saw from TOPMAN Design at LCM earlier this year. The mod-look was conveyed by means of single-breasted suit jackets and skinny fit leather trousers, tucked into Chelsea boots and accessorised with neck ties.