If you are anything like me you have been glued to your 3G following every #lcm, #menswear, #londoncollection trending on twitter. For the past three days London has been invaded by dapper looking gentlemen and suited and booted fashion folk to enjoy the showcasing of the London Collections: Men.
Drawing to a close today, the festivities have been pioneered by the British Fashion Counsel to align London with the likes of Milan for menswear. An industry valued at £9.9 billion, the third year of the London Collections: Men has been supported by the likes of Boris Johnson (not Britain’s most fashionable export, but hey ho) and 134 designers who now utilize this event to showcase their works to buyers and journos from around the world.
It looks like S/S 2014 is set to be quite the season for menswear – here are the designers I’ve got my eye on, frankly how could the ladies lines compete?
J.W. ANDERSON
Belfast born, J.W. Anderson champions unisex clothing, he once described his signature style as “things that can be borrowed from a man to a woman and from a woman to a man.” Last year’s collections saw his ‘Mathematics of Love’ line parade the ‘skort’ and the boob tube for boys, which had all the critics clapping and flapping, so what to expect of this year’s collection? Well it would appear we can abandon our squats and lunges and replace them with some dumbbell lifting, because S/S 2014 is all about the shoulder. This is menswear with a feminine edge; halter necks, asymmetric roll-necks and sleeveless leathers, offset with low-riding tailored trousers to compliment the upper body silhouette.
ASTRID ANDERSEN
Another Andersen worth celebrating originates from ‘wonderful, wonderful Copenhagen’, and her name is Astrid. Her London Collections: Men debut has not disappointed, with her S/S 2013 collection drawing on inspiration from the concept of ‘vanity as an extreme sport’, this year sees her present a collection of street and sportswear comprised of far more neutral colourings but with the same zest as her previous work. In Andersen’s own words she wanted to create show that was ‘super-sexy’ and frankly girlinmenswear gives her two thumbs right up. Male models were a juxtaposition of hyper masculinity, as cut away tops revealed well-oiled six packs, and virginal femininity in lacey white fabrics. Astrid’s collection was an urban mix of bright, tight and flawless white, with lace and sheer detailing throughout. There were some looser sports silhouettes, floral patterns and mint green velour fabrics featured, but it was the budgie smuggling meggings and the cutaway tops that stole the show yesterday.
RICHARD JAMES
Now for something a bit more sensible ladies and gents, Mr Richard James, a design crush girlinmenswear has been harbouring for a while. His S/S 2014 collection is like a breath of sweet n balmy fresh air; all lemonade on the lawn at dusk, the show was a colour-drenched pastel parade of exquisite tailoring nurtured upon Savile Row. The ankle skimming trousers framed a collection of impressive floral, sequinned espadrilles, confirming that the mankle is going nowhere. Richard James has once again produced a collection of slim, clean silhouettes comprised of single breasted jackets and pops of dusty pinks and sky blues – huzzah!
KATIE EARY
It is apparent from previous posts that girlinmenswear retains quite the penchant for bird print, and so you can imagine my delight at seeing Katie Eary’s collection entitled ‘Flamingo Massacre’. This S/S 2014 collection is not for the wallflower, it’s acidic, tangerine toned and brash – the word vibrant doesn’t cut it, this is L.O.U.D. A far cry from the tighty-wighties displayed at Astrid Andersen’s show, this is oversized sportswear in bold leopard and flamingo print, paired with highlighter pink high-tops to make you go yeeeeeeow!
AGI & SAM
The name on everyone’s lip is of course menswear duo Agi & Sam who herald from Alexander McQueen’s menswear and print departments, but set up shop in 2010. Their most recent collaborations have been with Topman to create a 20-piece collection of bold printed sportswear and block coloured tailoring, and more latterly, in celebration of the London Collections, a three piece exclusive for Mr Porter. For their S/S 2014 line, digitised prints are of course at the forefront, with TfL inspired textiles and Morse code patterns featured across their tailoring. The story around their inspiration is a bit hazy (something about an old man on a bus and Boris Johnson?), but regardless this is a collection of bright and bold hues, 3D motifs and ankle skimming slim fit trousers that teeter on the ‘out-there’ but somehow remain very wearable. What Danny Boyle did for the 2012 Olympics is what Agi & Sam are doing for menswear – suddenly everyone’s talking about London.
