Pitti Street Style: www.GQ.com
With Burberry packing their Brit Check Bags and returning to London full-time, and in the wake of an exceptional few days at the London Collections: Men, there have been rumblings from Paris and New York that Milan’s couture crown may be slipping.
Giorgio Armani and Donatella Versace have publicly called on Italian designers to show exclusively on native soils, and the National Fashion Chamber has had a shake up to try to find new innovative ways to retain the country’s prowess. In a stumbling economy fashion means big money to Milano. This week’s menswear shows alone will see over 1000 journalists and 10,000 buyers touchdown in Italy, with Bain and Company reporting that 120million euros has been spent in Milan over the last four fashion weeks.
Tommy Ton: www.GQ.com
It has been suggested whilst the other fashion capitals invest a lot in their fashion weeks to create a program which is rich in art, culture and heritage, Milan has been rather nonchalant about the whole thing. Well, not anymore, the National Fashion Chamber has dusted off its cobwebs and elected Patrizio Bertelli (of Prada) as Vice President in hope of rejuvenation. With 78 designers showcasing their works at this week’s menswear shows things may be on the up.
However, not dissimilar to Italy’s own government, the National Fashion Chamber has gone through sizeable change slowed by internal disputes and spats between designers; whilst Zegna has called for ‘unity’, recently outed Dolce & Gabbana have refused to get involved pledging allegiance to no capital. Bertelli has been critiqued for championing Prada’s presence exclusively in Milan, whilst sister brand Miu Miu has not followed suit. Even Armani who has spearheaded the program is sitting on the fence until other designers commit.
Caroline Koning and Wara Juana Gutierrez Mamani: www.nymag.com
Also on the Chamber’s radar, is the lack of young skilled workers with the training and inclination to produce the garments for said collections. Whereas artisanal skills were traditionally taught at home, with sewing, knitting and embroidery being common practice amongst older Italian generations, today’s youth dream of being models not seamstresses. Consequently, Italian labels have to fill this gap in the workforce with imported talent, or alternatively send the work abroad all together. In a country where youth unemployment has reached 35%, brands like Tod’s are unable to fill their apprenticeships and well-paid job openings. The country lacks the craft to keep ‘Made in Italy’ put.
Milano Moda Uomo draws to a finish tomorrow, but it looks like Bertelli may have a lot on his plate if what’s Made in Italy is to Stay in Italy.
