When I was at London Collections Men last week I had the opportunity to pop backstage with the Academy of Freelance Make-up (AOFM) to see how the make-up team completed the various designers’ visions. Unlike Fashion Week, where article upon article is produced instructing us how to mirror the catwalk looks, the menswear shows have a more subtle impact on trends. Don’t get me wrong though, the menswear looks for next season are cultivated on those catwalks – hair cuts, beard lengths, eye-brow shapes and skin tones are all being quietly crafted with consideration on par with their womenswear counterparts.
YMC are known for their modern, utilitarian style that withstands the test of trends. The brand always creates highly wearable, fantastic quality fashion with a laid back aesthetic. Yin Lee, was the head make-up artist for YMC’s AW14 catwalk collection, and her and the AOFM team were tasked with creating a clean look to compliment the brand’s every man ethos. ‘Rugged, manly and natural looking’ were the three buzz words on the team of six’s lips, and they used Dermalogica to create the faultless aesthetic.
KTZ always promise drama. Voluminous materials juxtaposed with the skin tight, prints inspired from the designers’ extensive travels and a palette that usually features A LOT of black and white. KTZ boarders the theatrical when it comes to make-up – a far cry from make-up artist’s Michelle Webb’s dewey, boyish looks at Xander Zhou. When I caught up with Michelle earlier in the week it was clear that this was a collection she was particularly excited about working on, and she explained how the looks had taken four days to create and finalise to ensure that the garments would be enhanced rather than overshadowed. The inspiration for the looks that she and Gregory Kara led were “futuristic explorers”. The looks were created by using mostly cream based products, then just before the models hit the catwalk, some sliver and black were added sporadically to finalise the look.
*KTZ images are courtesy of Phoenix Magazine
Michelle Webb also took the lead on the make-up for Beijing based Xander Zhou‘s AW14 collection. The designer’s collection centred around ceremonial sashes, relaxed tailoring and diagonal lines that interrupted block colours. The make-up look was a simple and understated one, with a distinct fresh look and feel to it – a world away from the aforementioned KTZ stage make-up. Michelle explained that the focus was on skin care rather than make-up. The AOFM team cleansed and toned the models’ skin, using brightening serum to wake up the skin before moisturising it. When corrections where necessary, the team used Bobbi Browns to touch up under the eyes and hide away any blemishes, finishing off the looks with a sheen effect on the cheek bones, nose and chin. The mood was expensive, flawless and dewey, but certainly not feminine.
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