DAGMAR is known for looking to the Art Deco movement for colours and patterns for their collections, but for AW14 the fashion house drew inspiration from the Godfather of Cubism, Pablo Picasso. The brand has had a great year, with their AW13 line getting into prestigious multi-brand retailers such as Net-a-Porter and Harrods – if ACNE Studios paved the way for Swedish brands on an international stage, then DAGMAR will almost certainly be next in line for the throne.DAGMAR, founded by three sisters, is primarily a knitwear brand. Whilst SIBLING has been making crochet hooks relevant in London, DAGMAR has been doing this in Stockholm since 2005. For AW14 double knitting, bonded materials, heavy wool, delicate organza, latex in nude tones, fur and denim are layered to create exciting three dimensional textures. The employment of a diverse range of fabrics made each look exciting, with subtle contrast fabrics found in pleat details and panelling.Shapes were varied, with asymmetric skirts, midi-length pencil skirts and pleated minis contrasting with slouchy, relaxed tailored trousers and skinny denim. Silhouettes were generally bullet shaped, and flared skirts were paired with oblong shaped tops creating a feminine silhouette. Polo necks with voluminous sleeves created a wintery feel, as did bomber jackets, blazers and masculine coats that belted at the waist.Geometric patterns and prints drew inspiration from Picasso’s works, with linear, directional lines stretching across garments. Colours were also inspired by the Cubist movement, with black, white, cardboard and silver as the principal tones, and several show stopper pieces in a fiery block shade of red.
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