As I am now a Stockholm resident, it only seemed right that I did a post on each show I made it to during their Fashion Week. I actually had to cut my Stockholm Fashion Week diary short by a day as neighbouring Copenhagen Fashion Week overlapped with it. In between work, I managed to get to a few of the shows in my free time. Here is my roundup of the Danish brands you should make note of now as they’re only on the up.
Wood Wood has fast become one of the most popular streetwear brands to come out of Scandinavia. Conceived by three designers, the brand create full womenswear and menswear collections that are currently stocked by the likes of ASOS. For AW14 the collection was inspired by the 1960’s war film “The Guns of Navarone” (ask your Dad, he will have seen it even if you haven’t). The “Heroes” collection had a distinctively DIY look and feel, with a utilitarian aesthetic. Oxblood, navy, khaki and a gaudy yellow made up the colour palette, which was employed on tailored pieces layered under V neck tees, bombers and cropped jackets.
Baum und Pferdgarten
Baum und Pferdgarten was founded in 1999 by Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave who pride themselves in combining quality with an innovative and playful design. Their AW14 collection was a celebration of the print and the humble square held the crown. Most pieces were decorated with tartan in various guises, with houndstooth and snake print also featuring heavily. A monochrome palette was injected with oxblood, lilac and a beautiful bottle green, which was employed to great affect. The flared mini skirt was the signature piece in this collection, with pleats also appearing on sleeves and peplum tops. Texture was explored with sequins, snakeskin, leather panelling, exposed zippers, chiffon and quilting. Collared shirts with contrast piping, and grandpa collars were layered under knitwear – in true Scandinavian fashion, proportion and layering were key in the styling. Baum und Pferdgarten’s AW14 collection has something for everyone, a hit if you ask me.
Designers Remix is a Scandinavian success story. Founded in 2002 by Creative Director Charlotte Eskildsen and her husband and CEO, Niels Eskildsen, the Danish duo have successfully developed the company into a global brand. Designers Remix are known for their discreet minimalism that explores 3D tailoring, draped material and exciting cuts.
Their AW14 catwalk show took place underground in an eerie grotto (no phone signal here), and the collection drew inspiation from Eskildsen’s grandfather’s collection of military equipment, uniforms, weaponry and medals. Uniform and modernism has long inspired the designer, and this collection centred around function and simplicity – the core of what the brand stands for. Tailoring drew inspiration from menswear, with oversized wool coats, minimal details, shell tops and weighty fabrics contrasting with feminine 3D dresses in luxe sports hems. Black, grey and camel were interrupted with pink, pale green, red and blue, a colour palette that had been inspired by famous art works. Wool, neoprene and leather were amongst the fabrics employed to create sumptuous textures.
Bruuns Bazaar are about well cut, simple garments that aren’t too arty or conceptual. They are simple and flattering, which makes for easy, ready-to-wear garments, but perhaps not such an exciting show. For AW14 womenswear drew inspiration from menswear, with fine tailored pieces paired with relaxed sporty sweaters. The menswear collection was direct and focused, with understated blazers and tapered trousers styled with simple knitwear and accessorised with scarves. Although not the most invigorating AW14 collection, these are separates you will want to buy and incorporate in your day to day dressing.
By Malene Birger
Malene Birger, formerly of Day Birger et Mikkelsen, is highly accomplished at making fashion brands successful. By Malene Birger is now stocked in net-a-porter and is fast becoming an internationally renowned luxury label. Inspiration is drawn from the classic styles of the ’50s and ’60s, with signature silks and sequins making up a feminine collection.
For AW14 the designer merged slouchy tailoring with layered knitwear, voluminous floor-length skirts with sequin embellished shirts, and contrast textures with clashing animal prints.With a distinct boho feel, garments were worn loose and reto-inspired florals and animal prints featuring in most looks. Burnt oranges, creams, dusty pinks and slate greys were employed on luxurious fabrics. Perhaps not my favourite collection of the designers, this will be the last that Malene Birger oversees as she hands over to new in-house design talent for SS15.