As promised, here are a few of my shots from the London Fashion Week presentations I managed to get to. I love a runway show, but there is something special about getting to interact with the models and get right up close to the collections.
When I walked into Markus Lupfer my first reaction was “what happened to all the sequins?” With lashings of sparkle adorning the likes of Tom Ford, Mary Katrantzou, House of Holland and Ashish, I was surprised by the distinct lack of glitz at Lupfer’s presentation. Instead, we were transported to a cafe/diner to hang out with the rebellious school girls of Lupfer’s creative direction. School uniform silhouettes in greys were paired with red tartan shirts and bombers, and floral print skater dressers. Lupfer’s distinctive slogan sweatshirts will of course be making an appearance for AW14, this time promoting his greasy spoon where “fizzy pop” is only “60p”.
A pitter pattering soundtrack of rain was interspersed with mewing and barking for Orla Kiely’s “Raining Cats and Dogs” presentation. The designer’s signature delicate prints were central to the collection, with belted mackintoshes featuring the seasonal cat and dog emblems. Kiely, who recently joined forces with shoe retailer Clarks, provided her signature Mary Jane heels with 50s colouring and distinctive prints on the soles. Kiely’s girly aesthetic was realised on feminine tea dresses, cigarette pants, pleated skirts and trim pencil skirts. Cutesie oversized buttons, cinched in waists, Peter Pan collars and oversized floral prints highlighted the vintage AW14 mood.
Entitled Times New Roman, Antipodium’s AW14 collection was a playful presentation featuring shift dresses, pleated skorts, ribbed cardigans and sweater dresses. The brand’s signature twin set was updated for this season with collar slashes, and faux fur appeared on bright orange outerwear pieces. Details included an all over Roman statue print, the letter “A” appliqued in digi Times New Roman, and bronze PVC. The colour palette was largely orange and “Encylopedia Brittanica” green, with silver and bronze also featuring. Contemporary and fun, Antipodium has once again created a light hearted, easy to wear collection for the modern girl.
Cult Japanese label TOGA made their debut at London Fashion Week this season by means of a presentation. For AW14 it was all about contrast fabrics, exciting layering, clashing shapes, varied proportions and of course gorgeous shoes. Voluminous outerwear in fur and wool was layered over roll necks and shirts. Pleats appeared as peplums, in floor length and midi skirts, and on bandeau leather tops that sat over shirting. Sheer floral fabrics spilled out of belts that cinched in at the waist, and relaxed t-shirts were paired with more elegant detailing. A beautiful A-line mini skirt featuring galloping wild horses was a stand out piece. Fur lined winklepickers, chunky jewellery, and workman belts housing rubber gloves gave the collection a distinct industrial feel.
Hosted at the Royal Academy, Tata Naka drew inspiration for AW14 from the world of highly decorative interior design and the paintings of Matisse. SS14 saw the Tata Naka twins dabble in colour blocking rather than prints, so it was refreshing to see the duo return to their eye-catching prints and applique details. The prints in question were derived from Persian rugs, Aubusson carpets, hand-painted wall papers, ceramic tiles and porcelain china, and were applied to bomber jackets, lady-like pencil skirts, loosely tailored blouses, peplum skirts and trousers. Prints were enhanced by sumptuous fabrics including georgette, silk crepe de chine, bonded silk neoprene and luxurious wool crepe.