Say what you like about Hedi Slimane’s appointment at Saint Laurent, but the brand has been reinvigortaed with relevance and is flying high on the repercussions of the Creative Director’s arrival. Today something similar happened at Louis Vuitton, as Nicolas Ghesquière debuted his first collection for the fashion house. Ghesquière replaces the acclaimed Marc Jacobs bringing with him a wealth of experience acquired from 15 years at Balenciaga, but unlike Slimane, Ghesquière’s was a quiet revolution.
There was a distinct Balenciaga feel at Louis Vuitton’s Paris Fashion Week show, but not to the point of predictability, instead it was a much more scaled down version of the designer’s code of conduct, applied to small detailing – cropped jumpers nipped in at a belted waistline, skin tight never-ending trousers, and of course a nod to futurism, but subtly realised with A line skirts sliced by exposed zippers. The colours had a distinct Seventies mood with mustard and browns, blue and black, and maroon applied to glossy leathers and suedes, and worked into carpet like floral patterns. The Seventies theme was also realised in waistcoats, cream polo necks and the occasional baby-doll style.
Curve heeled ankle boots in richly toned leathers, and bowling bags, mini trunkettes and clutches are sure to be next seasons must have accessories.
Ghesquière saluted the past with the following note for his attendees:
“Today is a new day. A big day. You are about to witness my first fashion show for Louis Vuitton. Words cannot express exactly how I am feeling at this moment… Above all, immense joy at being here, in the knowledge that my stylistic expression is at one with the Louis Vuitton philosophy. The proud legacy. The inspiring history that looks to the future and to the world. The quest for authenticity and innovation. The desire for timelessness. Does not every designer ultimately seek to create something timeless? I salute the work of Marc Jacobs, whose legacy I wholeheartedly hope to honour. And I thank you for being here to share this moment with me. Thanks to all of you who have helped me to tell this new story and who make Louis Vuitton what it is, and especially to those who work with me. Thanks to everyone who is here on this day, this morning. Right now.”
Photography courtesy of Style.com