Girl in Menswear

Not just for girls. Not just about menswear.

Sunday

20

April 2014

Happy Easter

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 Hey everyone, just a quick note from Stockholm to wish everyone the happiest of Easters! May your bellies be full with chocolate Easter eggs (preferably of the Lindt variety) and may you be surrounded by those you love! I’m wearing shirt by & Other Stories (it’s on sale at the moment if interested) and some awesome Wildfox sunglasses that you may have seen doing the rounds at Coachella last weekend – I love ‘em.

xxx

 

 

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Friday

18

April 2014

The girl with the pearl earring

sophie-bille-brahe-pearl-earringThere’s this super cool girl at an agency I’ve started freelancing at, she rocks vintage Kenzo trousers and has a pair of THOSE Celine black and gold brogues, and the other day she was wearing the most perfect single ear ring. A stunning pearl perched on the bottom of what looked like a belly button ring in one ear. I sat all through our meeting gawping at the right side of her face, so much so, that I’m pretty sure she must think I have a lazy eye. I cycled home that night and went straight to my lap top to try to find this pearly perfection online so I too could look so effortlessly hip. Of course, “one pearl and gold”, “Scandinavian designer pearls”, “pearl ear bar” did not yield a relevant result, but luckily I have a friend who knows a thing or two about jewellery and in a perfectly formulated text message she wrote me “You’re looking for: Sophie Bille Brahe.” And yes, I was. I definitely was.

The Danish designer creates simple pieces from 14karat cold and above and this particular ear ring that caught my attention is part of her “Perles” collection. All her Look Books are brimming with classic pieces with an avant-garde twist. Check out her “gold collection” featuring a double ring with a city skyline constructed from gold and diamonds that sits below your knuckles. Of course at circa €400 a pop they are a bit dear on the wallet, but for the quality and originality they are well worth the price. Sophie Bille Brahe has also collaborated with Swedish high street collective WEEKDAY offering a more affordable alternative to her precious pieces. I however will be saving my pennies so I too can be a Girl with a Pearl Earring.

 

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Thursday

17

April 2014

Peak Beard

Lightness-of-Dressing_fy2 Lightness-of-Dressing_fy7Lightness-of-Dressing_fy4Isn’t this the most beautiful manspiration? This porcelain faced, well-dressed gent immersed in a vibrant and exotic location has me wanting to a) book a holiday to SE Asia b) buy an ivory coloured suit and sling some marigolds around my neck.

I stumbled across these images whilst imbibing my usual morning bout of menswear literature. Today, I was looking for some shots of clean shaven faces rather than my usual grizzly faced guys, the reason being that I had just read an article in The Guardian warning “fashion conscious men”  that we have reached “peak beard”.

Yep the bearded fitties of yester-post are no longer en vogue. Girls, we have binge-bearded so much, that we have in fact overdosed on facial fuzz and it’s been SCIENTIFICALLY PROVEN (it’s on the internet therefore its true) that we are now more attracted to squeaky clean faces than ever before. In the words of the Spice Girls (it is Vicky B’s birthday after all) “Too much of something is bad (enough)”

Its worth taking note that said research has taken place in New South Wales, a fair distance from my native Europe, so I have decided to conduct my own counter research in Stockholm. If you would like to contribute, please join me! I will be on a bench in SoFo playing a barber themed game of Hot or Not. My findings will be hosted here in a few weeks – who’s with me?

Model Dominik Bauer, with not a hint of hair on his face, shot by Giovanni Squatriti for the latest issue of Essential Homme magazine.

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Wednesday

16

April 2014

Mary Katrantzou for Adidas

img-maryk_085530875346Needless to say, I am counting down the days until the Alexander Wang for H&M launch date, but I am equally awaiting the Mary Katrantzou for adidas collaboration. Launching in November (the same month as AW for H&M) the collection will comprise of both footwear and clothing. Katrantzou told Vogue, “I’m really excited to be working with Adidas on a line of apparel and footwear. I grew up, like so many other kids around the world, wearing Adidas sneakers and I’m really excited about bringing my vision to such a global brand. They have a fantastic heritage and their ability to innovate in sportswear makes them the perfect partner for us to work with in this market.”

Adidas has worked with some of the biggest names in fashion including Jeremy Scott, Stella McCartney and Raf Simons. Let’s hope the collection is full of the designer’s signature applique detailing, vibrant colours and breathtaking silhouettes – November  pay day should be interesting!

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Wednesday

16

April 2014

Drop it like its hot.

NLST-SS-14-6I am a wee bit obsessed with drop-crotch pants. The spacious trouser shape should be so wrong, and yet looking like you’ve pooped your pants has never looked so right. For ages, the crotch-camp has been owned by the Ninja Warriors of the East. You know the ones, Japanese by origin and swathed in layer upon layer of Comme des Garcons fabrics and armed with yet to be released Samsung gadgets. I have tried my hand at the look, but I just look like a gap year wash up – or worse, Justin Bieber.

I have spent the last few days in a Pinterest black hole, under the umbrella of “blogger research” I have been browsing e-stores in pursuit of the perfect pair, jotting down notes and styling tips as I go along. On my sartorial sabbatical I discovered some common themes amongst the Celine wearing street stylers, and those in The Row, so like the Baz Luhrmann of the cropped trouser world “I will dispense my advice now”…

THE GOLDEN RULES OF DROPPING IT LIKES ITS HOT

1. Skin: Show some. I highly encourage you to flash some serious ankle and shin flesh. None of this hi top sneaker blurring into your trouser leg malarkey. To master the art of dropping le crotch, you need to get a wee bit of skin out.dropcrotch

2. (not so) Strictly monochrome: Purple leopard print is a no-no, as is rainbow coloured vertical stripes and anything that resembles gaudy pajama pastels -sleek and chic is achieved with a muted colour palette. If you want to look karate kid cool you need to keep it to black, white and grey (oooh and beige, beige is ok too).pants

3. The Law of Distribution: Wear a crisp white shirt, or a tee and tailored blazer, with your cropped low risers to balance proportion. It’s important that your hemlines cascade in straight lines, so get your steamer out to keep it vertical. You might look like you’re smuggling goods between your who-ha and your knee caps, but if you’re shirting is worn skinny, the look is dapper not diaper.

pants4. Le feet, c’est chic: Brogues, boots, slip ons (slip offs), plimsolls and pool slides are all perfectly acceptable accessories, but the pants are the focus so don’t distract with attention craving hi tops, or fluffy boots.dd6a7134051e3e08c2f518c8cdc577d0

5. Fabrications: Wool for winter and loose and languid linen for summer. Fabrics associated with tailoring = good. Sparkly, spangly and stretchy = bad.pants

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Tuesday

15

April 2014

The lazy girls guide to downtime dressing

You know those days that you can’t necessarily be bothered? When you want to wear something comfortable, but still look effortlessly cool? Those bleary-eyed Sundays, (and yes, they are usually Sundays) are the days when a love of menswear really comes into its own. These are the Sundays when I most appreciate a slightly looser waistband and unrestrictive pant shape, a flat sole, and a cap to shade my puffy face.

My new sartorial arsenal for said days are courtesy of the menswear brand Publish. Utilitarian, classic shapes are available in super small sizing so they are perfect for us girls too. I’m wearing their Tillary joggers with my Uniqlo turtleneck (ideal for hiding your faces when your friends recount last nights shenanigans), and my new favorite cardi-coat by Weekday. The cardi-coat is the my transeasonal staple when the weather refuses to play ball, and I have acquired this pale pink one in black as well. Shoes are by Marc Jacobs (similar here) and the cap is also by Publish.

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Monday

14

April 2014

NIKE x Liberty

Nike_x_Liberty_SU14_Internationalist_2_original
I am seriously crushing on all things Liberty London at the moment. They’ve got an impressive back catalogue of collaborations, but their recent partnership with ACNE Studios and now Nike has put them firmly in my most coveted camp.

For the collaboration, Nike’s most popular sneaker styles have been reinvigorated with Liberty’s iconic floral prints and canvas panelling – I have a bit of a revulsion for trainers with platforms, but the Internationalists are A.M.A.Z.I.N.G.

For you sporty types you can also get some pretty cool running gear on the Liberty site at the moment, but unfortunately they’ve sold out of a lot of the sneaker styles already with only the dark blue Roshe run trainers and the light blue Roshes still available – surprising because these models are some of my favourites. If you can hold out a bit you will be able to buy them on the Nike site from May 7th…outfit post by yours truly coming soon!Nike_x_Liberty_SU14_Collection_original

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Sunday

13

April 2014

Three bags full

bags

It’s kind of typical really that around the same time that I get a phone the size of my forearm, bags the size of my pinkie simultaneously come into fashion.For a girl who stuffs the contents of her life into the bottomless pit of an oversized backpack on a daily basis (hey, they are on trend too don’t cha know!), the teeny, tiny trend feels rather daunting.

No jks, I currently have an apple, a bottle of water, a copy of LOVE magazine, a notebook, four pens, my phone, my keys, my wallet, headphones, hand cream, lip balm, a crusty packet of Haribo, two Oyster cards (errrr I’ve lived in Sweden for 8months now) and my phone charger  in my bag right now – I mean seriously!?

The thing is, I feel like I neeeeed all these things, ok maybe not the Oyster cards, but definitely everything else. I want to downsize, really I do, but where would I put all my stuff?

Are you doing the pocket-rocket bag trend? If so, please impart your storage wisdom on me.

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Saturday

12

April 2014

Let’s discuss VOGUE and Violence

vog2Vogue has sparked a lot of debate of late, mostly around whether or not Kim Kardashian and Kanye West should have graced the cover of the American edition. It seemed like everyone felt the need to comment on whether or not Wintour had finally lost her marbles, and social media became a platform (as it does) for people to defend poor KimYe or blast them for being “Everything that’s wrong with America” (medical care, political gridlock, fire arms anyone?). If you live in a social media black hole, I encourage you to catch-up on the issue by searching “#vogueisdead” or “#boycottvogue” – it’s an entertaining side order for your morning coffee and croissant.

If honest, I couldn’t care less. I love Vogue as much as the next blogger, but I’m not about to unsubscribe just because Kim Kardashian and a # are on its cover. Hey, I can get riled like the best of them, but try as I might I can’t get angry about this.vogue_italia_may_2014_domestic_violence-656x429However, the Vogue debate that’s really caught my interest is geographically closer to home – let’s pop over to Vogue Italia. Under the direction of Editor Franca Sozzani, (a title she’s held since 1988) and in an editorial shot by Steven Meisel, the April issue is addressing domestic violence under the headline “Horror Stories”.

Of course Sozzani is no stranger to controversy, she is famous for tackling societal issues on her pages – Oil spills off the Gulf of Mexico, an all black model cast to address fashion’s racial debate, references to our obsession with plastic surgery and pages dedicated to the glamorization of rehab are some highlights from her tenure. However, many argue that this particular piece has gone a step too far. In the wake of Vice Magazine’s suicide spreads, people are questioning whether it is appropriate for magazines whose raison-d’être is fashion, to be tackling such sensitive issues.

The spreads of said editorial feature are undoubtedly well-shot, perfectly styled and hauntingly beautiful. I can’t argue that these models don’t romanticize the subject matter and glamorize violence though – I assume most women struck by domestic abuse are not gracefully draped over staircases in Prada, but this in itself raises a question about the way we imagine abuse. Let’s think like marketers, what does abuse look like? I’ll be honest, I relate abuse to distant cultures, to poverty, to the underprivileged, to those drunk, drugged, disorderly or destitute – I imagine films and books I’ve read, a far cry from my reality. I never imagine my friends nor my family – that certainly make me very lucky, and equally makes me exceptionally naive.vogueitalia1In Mimma Viglezio’s article for Business of Fashion she cites that 33% of women in the European Union fall victim to domestic violence on an annual basis, and in France alone, every three days a woman is severely wounded or killed at the hand of a family member. Sozzani explains that her motivation for the controversial content was that 1700 women were victims of abuse last year in her native Italy, and 130 of those women were killed as a consequence. “Women worldwide aged 15 to 44 are more likely to die as a result of domestic violence than as a consequence of war, cancer, malaria and traffic accidents combined. American women are twice as likely to suffer domestic violence as breast cancer.”* It’s mind boggling isn’t it?

Domestic violence is not beautiful and its not glamorous, but it’s good to be reminded, in whatever format it takes, that it is real and it can affect anyone. There’s a great article by Katharine K. Zarrella for Style.com, which has been doing the rounds. Here she questions whether violence should be used to sell clothes, after all “abuse is not glamorous, and the brutalization of women should never be portrayed as beautiful, especially in a fashion magazine.”  You wouldn’t use children in Africa to sell pairs of skinny jeans, so why is it ok to use the beaten and battered to sell Balenciaga?

Violence is not sexy and I agree that by creating a “Horror Story” out of the subject, the piece feels cinematic, highly stylized and therefore fictional. Perhaps because I am privileged enough to have not been affected by domestic abuse I don’t feel quite as horrified as some other commentators do, although I agree that it does feel a bit like a poorly judged bad taste party. However it’s got us talking about something important, and you can’t argue that, that’s good, right?NzhhZDJlMDhkYiMvWEk1VkNDQXpITDJHNWdrY283eEhhdHZLczBBPS8zNXg0Mzo2MzR4NDIxLzg0MHg1MzAvczMuYW1hem9uYXdzLmNvbS9wb2xpY3ltaWMtaW1hZ2VzL2Y3ZTMxZWI3ZDViOWVkNGNkZGM4ODM0ZDAzMWI1YzVlNzIwY2Y1ZmUzODJlZmJiMzk1MDZlZWU0NTRlZGI4OGUuanBnThere’s a shock tactic viral campaign by The Pilion Trust charity, which you’ve probably seen, whereby a charity worker wears a sandwich board that reads “FUCK THE POOR”. Inevitably passers by are angered by the message and stop to tell him so. At the end of the video the same man wears a board that reads “HELP THE POOR” – nobody stops, it seems that nobody cares. The message is a good one and feels relevant to the Vogue debate. We all care, but sometimes we need something crass and a bit tasteless to remind us how much. Even if that’s not Vogue’s intention, they’ve catalyzed conversation and through that are inadvertently raising awareness about an important topic.

*Mimma Viglezio’s for Business of Fashion.

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Friday

11

April 2014

Australia Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014

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Finale at Toni Maticevski: Australia Fashion Week 2014

I am going to fess up now. I know very, very little about Australian Fashion. In fact, when I was Down Under I’m pretty sure I lived in a uniform of We are Handsome cossies and micro-denim shorts, paying little attention to what else was available for those more fashion forward than I. But of course Ozzies are fashionable, you just need to check out Gary Pepper Girl’s blog, or the chicks from They All Hate Us to know that there are some very well dressed girls roaming in Oz.

Part of my role as a fashion blogger, (yes life is hard) is to keep up to date with international Fashion Weeks, which is why I’ve spent the last few days with a cup of coffee in hand gorging on what’s been going down, Down Under.

Australia have put on quite the performance for their Spring/Summer Fashion Week – a parade of neoprene, dewey gelato colours, sleek monochromes, never-ending knots and masculine shapes have taken to the catwalk, and here are my top pick of designers from this week.

DION LEE IIdionWhy I like it? Traditional tailoring with a twist, Dion Lee is one of Australia’s most prized design exports. Diffusion line Dion Lee II applied all the exciting shapes and folds of mainline, but with denim, sporty silhouettes and haphazardly tied shirting.

ALICE MCCALLALICW copyWhy I like it? You may recall Kate Moss sporting some of the ex-stylists creations back in the day. Lots of glitter and a bit of grunge, the collection celebrated the skort, pushed the print, featured delicate cut outs, and had a generally ethereal feel to it that would work well on European turf.

TONI MATICEVSKI tonyWhy I like it? More knots! Yes the haphazard tying of a shirt is clearly en vogue.  Here in Sweden, BACK and GANT Rugger Women are pushing it for AW14, so I’m loving the take on the trend Down Under. Crystal embellished mesh, draped shapes to offset sharp tailoring, neoprene feel fabrics and pops of colour and pleating make for a directional collection by Toni Maticevski. Selecting two images to feature was damn near impossible.

MICHAEL LO SORDOmichaelWhy I like it? This years winner of the BT Emerging Fashion Designer Award is a name to watch. A razor take sharp on romantic minimalism, this dreamy collection of whites, blacks and sorbet coloured pinks, lemons and blues was realised in tailored blazers, silky macs, loose trousers and cut out gowns. Shirting was haphazardly knotted and jackets were thrown over one shoulder.

KARLA SPETICwhiteWhy I like it? Pool side glamour is taken to new heights, with an impressive collection of monochrome tailoring and cut-out mesh dresses. Sheer panelling, pearly oyster hues, high slits and digitally cut plates are teamed with Reeboks for a distinctly androgynous feel.

ELLERYalexWhy I like it? Ellery’s collection oozes an almost Parisian sophistication. Mostly monochrome, loose and languid shapes, fluid pleats, signature bell sleeves and barely there silks made this a grown-up and glamorous collection to watch.

HARYONO SETIADI hariWhy I like it?  Sort of what I expect to see come out of Australia, the colour palette centred around the ocean, with blue waves melting into surf coloured whites. Orange was employed to mimic the sun setting over the sea. Silk separates and buoyant silhouettes give dresses an easy-breezy weightlessness. 

I wasn’t there, so images are courtesy of Australian Vogue. 

 

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